My Ramblings

I took the bike for a quick test ride round the block and it was fine. it actually cornered now that I had sorted out the tyre pressures. and the brakes all work. I gave the bike a quick look over and noticed that I hadn't marked the rear caliper bolts. (I mark each bolt when I tighten it up to the specified torque so that I can see if it loosens up. so if you look at my bikes you'll see white dots on a lot of the bolts.). As I hadn't marked it, I hadn't tightened it up fully, so I torqued it up and marked it. The bike shop I use managed to fit my in for an MOT before they went off to the Isle of Man Classic TT, so that morning, I got my gear on, wheeled the bike out of the garage, said a quick prayer (I'm not religious, but it can't hurt), and I then put my life in my own hands. I mean that even though I ride every day, I had never before done this much work on a bike. I'd changed braked pads, but never replaced the brake seals, and although I had tor

So, I've swapped the CB750 and Z750 as the CB750 was up on the bench, but it is going to the bike shop to have a few things looked at. so now that the Z750 is up on the bench I will change the oil (as the engine has now run I want to make sure I remove any gunk that the oil has flushed out of the engine) and I'll change the coolant. The oil change went smoothly (so really, I should have been expecting trouble with the cooling system). Reading through the haynes manual, Kawasaki seem to have put a lot of thought into building the Z750 to make it difficult for the home mechanic to do a coolant change. The first instruction in the haynes manual is : Remove the fuel tank. What? why do I need to remove the fuel tank just to change the coolant? well, it's because instead of making the pressure cap (which is also used for topping up the coolant) easily accessible. it's underneath the fuel tank. right in the middle. So fuel tank off (at least I'm getting used to r